Above the bright roofs of Paris with an excellent view of the whole city and of course the Eiffel Tower: Comptoir des Cotonniers bright showroom aka a huge apartment somewhere capital, France would have no better Paris feeling to start my short trips can conjure. Oh my God, this is an incredibly beautiful city. Pretty cheesy I must admit so that dreams hardly materialize – and already I’m mentally in “Breath out of” and considering yet again RASP short to cut my hair and to stroll along à la Jean Seberg through Paris. But we let it, I drift off so needlessly.
What is different on French presentations than on those in Germany? Everything is elitärer, although informal and friendly and the fashion is received with much attention, yes almost already awesome under the magnifying glass. It has however also earned Amélie de Capdeville’s new Chief Designer. She wants to breathe fresh air to the slightly dusty image of the French label, landed a bull’s-eye with her heart and passion with me and shows me in the interview why we in the future must heed comptoir des Cotonniers more.
Quite a long time I had the label was founded in 1995 in no longer on the screen – too much competition in the focus has moved and replaced the rather quiet fire. But that will finally change the new Creative Director of the House. She has enough experience, after all, she is co-founder of Zadig & Voltaire, recently founded her own brand of Lovemilla and launched the creative processes even for Kenzo and Humberto Leon and Carol Lim. Who so has a lot of experience, who can do actually just excellent his job, non? And who fitted a Lookbook with Polaroids, which has a stone in the Board with us eh.
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Why comptoir? I know since yesterday again the answer: because boho looks rarely so relaxed in everyday transport. Because this label at the same time can do more than hippiesk and subtly used romance finally again must find more expression in our outfits. Agree? Then you take a closer look.
Salut Amélie! How are you doing? You are relatively new to the team and since the winter of 2013, responsible for the entire collection. At best, you yourself introduce yourself, huh?
Amélie: Of course. My name is Amelie de Capdeville and I have been working for 20 years in the fashion industry. All 20 started also. I’ve never studied anything with fashion or followed any fashion rules. I stumbled into more Holta di Polta and started with Zadig & Voltaire as a co-founder. I always just thought that I would like to design things, I even prefer to wear and I liked. Just follow any trends, not even, I listen to my own voice.
And how do you connect with the Contonniers comptoir?
Amélie: Comptoir has a very beautiful story and is anchored in France. It slept a bit, but I’m trying with my influences, to wake up the fire – with fresh ideas and without disrespectful to the history to. I am trying to now incorporate female influences and tough elements, in order to make the overall look modern.
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In your own words, What was comptoir, what is comptoir and what it will be like in a year under your direction?
Amélie: Comptoir des Cotonniers brand was always a typical French: A mix of casual and effortless chic, timeless pieces, iconic Favorites and contemporary twist. I wanted to add more feminine class, because women today want to be female without sexy, follow trends, without being dependent on. The Comptoir bearer is tough and knows what she wants. She mix freely and without limits – she knows what underlines its character. I’m trying to think for the future global. The collection should get much more recognizable and characterized by even more iconic pieces. And I definitely need to work on the accessories – you must be even better and Comptoire-like.
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And what awaits us now for the summer?
Amélie: a there are many casual pieces with architectural prints, many sand tones, here and there leather, important details and feminine silhouettes. On the other hand, there’s also this dream world, I wanted to reflect: the wearer should can erupt, dream vacation, or go at least in thought at a Festival. Airy light pieces meet hippieske elements, lightweight materials and strong colors. Just as we imagine the visitors of the Coachella Festival. Not too overdressed, yet very self-conscious.
Are there matching a song in your head, which transported this feeling, this attitude?
Amélie: It sounds a little corny and sad, but it’s definitely summertime sadness by Lana del Rey. It’s a bit sad, dreamy and romantic, but incredibly beautiful. The title of the collection by the way, comes from the film with Alan Delon: defeat Soleil (note d. Ed. In German: witnessed only the Sun)-a line that calls up all positive associations of the summer: brightness, freshness, coolness. A positive vibe, which is supported for example by Sienna Miller and Kate Bosworth.
You spoke of the history of the label. What are the typical pieces of comptoir, which provide for recognition?
Amélie: Ohja. Our trench coat, for example, includes a. It varies from season to season and adapts. Especially important, but also the classic sailor shirt with blue stripes – is very French. But also our deep boots are classic, as well as our down jackets that are absolute bestseller. You do not belong to my favorites, but keeping warm in winter simply incomprehensible. And even Carin Roitfeld is a big fan of them. She wears them constantly!
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Down jackets are so constantly in the criticism, because geese are plucked the feathers alive and the farms under adverse circumstances breed animals. How to you at comptoir with sustainability? Is it topic at all?
Amélie: Since founding the label quality at the top is – there’s no trade-offs. And we are constantly working on improvements, but can speak to the equivalent-time of a high standard (note d. Ed. Comptoir des Cotonniers Kontor of the cotton merchant =)
And where will you let produce?
Amélie: We produce mainly in Europe – especially in Italy. In addition, Morocco and Portugal produced but also in Turkey, Asia and India. Bangladesh is at all not in question, as there, the quality is just too poor. Our team also there is constantly visited the production sites in the search for new partners, however, never concluded a cooperation. The standards are too low.
Quality plays an important role. There are preferred materials?
Amélie: Clearly: Silk!
You work sure already on the 2014 Winter collection, right? Can you tell anything to?
Amélie: Haha, I’m working on now, right. The silhouettes are definitely more and thicker knitting naturally also plays a role. I want to see a really cool woman in it – not because it is just cool, but because she feels cool. She travels, she is constantly on the move and yet down to Earth. The collection is still quite different. Let surprise you!
How do you get your inspiration?
Amélie: I follow no trends, but listen to my inner self. I’m trying to capture the spirit of the times and to respond to needs. I’m going with open eyes through the world and tip my ears. I travel a lot to gather new impressions. And the result is then a new line.
And if you you do not serve in his own camp, in which stores it is then?
Amélie: I love love love Alexander Wang, phobia Philo and Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent Paris. It is the complete opposite of comptoir, but I love it.
Where would we meet actually, if you had the day off?
Amélie: I would be with my three children and my husband on the land. We have removed something a small farmhouse from Paris and go there every Friday. My husband and I live a hectic life we need break weekend – also because of the kids. Only the country and we. I need this really, otherwise I would not be able to create the job.
Amelie, I just leave you alone, but I still have a question: it’s my second time in Paris, and I spend a weekend here. Where should I go absolutely there, huh?
-Have a cup of coffee at Le Flore in Saint-Germain – there is the best in the district.
-La grande Épicerie de Paris in the Grand marché – a small department store where you will find a small food corner.
-Go to the Luxembourg Garden, super nice!
– And of course Montmartre – this is Paris as one imagines.
-Lunch at the Colette is also not to despise (if one is already there for shopping)
-Of course the Musée Picasso Marais (also have there the shops on Sunday open)
– AND: you must go to the Palais Royale – to dream, because there it is super expensive.