The seventh day of Paris Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2016-2017 are staged the ’80s and a sophisticated and ethereal femininity but also pragmatic and current.
Two more days and then the Paris Fashion Week FW 2016-2017 will close its doors, taking down the curtain on the “month of the catwalks” started on February 11 in New York.
A long round of tournament, leaving behind memorable collections, more pragmatically “convincing” and some for which the judgment is suspended, which is a mirror (almost) true on Monday of the Villa Lumière shows.
Now it is more of a rumor that the fall-winter 2016-2017 women’s collection of Saint Laurent Paris will be the last of Hedi Slimane. Between the house and the designer the feeling is over and insiders roar of an increasingly likely its replacement by running at Anthony Vaccarello, climbed on the runway with great success the first day of parades. Goodbye announced, that the designer born of Tunisian and Italian mom dad chooses to celebrate with a real party 80s, reworking with its unique taste and unconventional stylistic periods and aesthetically one of the luckiest of Parisian fashion house.
Here then is a long accordingly the minidress (very mini) tight and wheel, leather skirt, silk and lamé, in solid colors, striped with artistic flower and animal prints, with deep necklines “V” in front and back, asymmetrical sleeves, worn with waistcoats and jackets with oversized shoulders fur, bomber jackets of different colors, stitched and decorated with stud, rings and stars embroidered, and maxi belts, tall and with large buckle. For the evening instead Slimane offers long dresses with a slim silhouette with ruffled skirts, or open at the bottom and suits with a masculine edge.
The result is spectacular-thanks to the location and staging-but the impression is that the designer wanted to have fun rather than leaving a farewell collection. A real shame, given its nothing short of huge contribution to the revival of Saint Laurent, thanks to him that today shines as never before in the fashion firmament.
Stile e bon vivant raffinatezza
Good girl Julie de Libran gives to all bon vivant style lovers of Sonia Rykiel another collection full of energy, optimism and femininity. From the coats and trouser suits in gray Prince of Wales and marsala with flounced dresses in different colors, by the heads of maritime inspiration -great classic of the house! -The leather skirt long to the ankle that recall the ’70s, from jackets with fur edging on pleated skirts, flowing down to evening dresses playing with transparencies, contrasts and lace decorations, the French designer outfits not only manufactures, but atmospheres. In fact, every look tells a story and evokes memories and images related to a Paris made of laughter, passion, gossip, youth, music, sensuality and mystery.
Choosing instead a reassuring sophistication for its collection FW 2016-2017 Giambattista Valli, pointing on soft clean lines, ethereal and precious fabrics, soft and basic colors mixed with colors like gold, silver and red to build elegance look “perfect”. Balance and moderation are the two directions along which moves the designer, but in his light minidress, in the fluttering skirts, jackets in enlivened by decorations of flowers and leaves in the clothes and long, almost diaphanous, there is nothing boring or severe. Rather, a lightness, a pleasant, inviting you to a new way of understanding the sensuality: less screaming, most suggested.
Are two women, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski of Hermès and Stella McCartney, to propose the most beautiful collections and convincing the seventh day of Paris Fashion Week shows.Slimane left to connect the burden-for better or for worse – the memorability, the pair of female designers to conquer with elegant and royal look, sophisticated and current, reflecting, each in its own way, the essence of femininity.
The designer of the fashion house on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré opts for lines and basic volumes, living equally well in their uniqueness and in the layering and draping,comfortable materials, enveloping and reassuring as wool, cashmere, leather, suede, velvet and silk and warm colors, intense and subtle, to shape long fluid dresses that highlight the silhouette, complete with a metropolitan mood and sensual dresses and daywear “pragmatic”.
Stella McCartney goes one step further and sends on the catwalk what could be the wardrobe of a woman of today, proposing a number of padded jackets (some of them in a beautiful copper color), coats denim, velvet blazers with tulle inserts, unstructured jackets and coats for men, soft palazzo pants and lively, full of day (and half in the evening) edgy, elegant and beautiful long dresses in silk with lace and embroidery that closely resemble lingerie. The result is-once again-a collection that speaks the same language of women and knows how to respond without hesitation to desires, insecurities and needs.
Paris Fashion Week, Day 6
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