Paris Fashion Week FW 2016 Day 3

With the FW 2016-2017 collection at Paris Fashion Week Balmain’s show time, but there are moments interlocutors and transition and parades decidedly unconventional, such as Rick Owens.

It’s a Paris Fashion Week  wavering one dedicated to the autumn-winter 2016-2017 season.After three days of parades, in fact, it is still unclear which direction want to take the French fashion. If the glamor aspect of so-called “traditional” is respected by the collections of Dries Van Noten, Rochas and Maison Margiela, there is also a component of business-oriented and “inventiveness” as in the case of proposals for Karl Lagerfeld and Anthony Vaccarello.

A mood that also runs through the third day of catwalks, alternating bombast and luxurious, creative and formal stand by, confirmations and clothing design as sculpture.

Show time

He does not betray the expectations nor the spirit of the Paris Fashion Week FW 2016-2017 collection of Balmain. Olivier Rousteing draws on the experience of his versatile fashion designer, communicator and “Friend of the VIPs” to create looks from the Baroque and royal style. Business as usual, then? More or less. Unusually, in fact, the French designer attenuates the eccentric and opulent vein of his outfits in favor of a more contemporary mood, subdued and – in some ways – relaxed. To play in this regard is undoubtedly the choice of colors, with the couple  Rose Quartz & Serenity Pantone (declined in different shades) in the guise of “hostess” and less space left in black, white, gold and shades as unconventional a dusty olive green. But not only. The sense of luxury content and less “shouted” is also given by the use of materials such as suede and angora and from different design touches “soft”, made ​​of Mussati edges, flowing lines and filled shapes and reassuring.

The glamor of the Paris Fashion Week attidudine also characterized the proposal for the next season of Chloé , a “romantic trip” in space, in time and in the emotions inspired by the designer Clare Waight Keller by the exploits of writer-biker Anne-France Dautheville.Among suits and complete leather jackets and ponchos that draw on the aesthetics of the Frontier and dresses leggiardi and fluttering of country and bohemian taste, the French fashion house collection is a veritable tribute to a free femininity style influences and gender , strong and with a lot of confidence in their own ability.

Transition and certainties

After breaking up with Alber Elbaz, Lanvin is presented to the Paris Fashion Week with a collection made-apparently in an atmosphere of great tension – from Chemena Kamali (art director of ready to wear) and Lucio Final (in charge of the accessories). Leaving aside the rumors about quarrels and similar amenities, it is clear that the creativity of the fashion house is on standby. Kamali fact so blatant avoids any reference to his predecessor and remains true to his style, a kind of romance 80 that takes shape in boho-chic dresses of velvet and chiffon trench vinyl, complete with velvet damask decorations, jackets deconstructed and pastel colors mixed with strong colors like maroon, blue, bronze, gold and black. Finale instead complete the look with cleavage, boots with heels and flat, laced shoes, hand bags, buckets and clutch that little seem in tune not only with the clothes, but also with each other. Too bad, because the interesting ideas – on the one hand and on the other – are not lacking.

By contrast, Julien Dossena draws for Paco Rabanne a collection autumn-winter 2016-2017, which confirms the new road of the house and the French creative style, a mix of minimalism and extravagance, tradition and futurism, with oriental aesthetic references and a strong debt to an icon like Jean Paul Gaultier, as he himself says: “Mix styles and genres is the Gaultier fashion and today was a” master.

Fashion as design

“I represent a niche. They are in another universe. ” With these words, Rick Owens explains his autumn-winter 2016-2017, a series of look that most clothes are real works of art.Indifferent-at least ostensibly -to the commercial logic, the American designer proposes coats, dresses, suits, tops, skirts and pants draped rich, built by volumes and as “sculpted”, characterized by a color palette that ranges from white to black , from gray to green water, from brown to rust, representing a purely aesthetic conception of fashion and style. Something different in an absolute way, that it is perhaps difficult to understand and put in the context of the fashion system, but has a creative force and a truly unique beauty.

Gallery

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